Pacific Grace - Trip 5 Summer 2018
August 21-22
I will try to summarize our first two and a half days. They have been eventful. We are anchored in beautiful Winter Harbour in Quatsino Sound at the northwest end of Vancouver Island. We entered just as it was getting dark last night and it was so still and quiet. We have had a very windy and cold beginning and many trainees were dealing with seasickness so to enter a calm harbor with the possibility of a good sleep was exciting. The skies have been blue and clear of smoke so we may be lucky and the northwest winds are blowing the smoke ahead of us.We left Port Hardy mid-afternoon and had a relatively calm but very cold run until we reached Nahwitti Bar where the water shallows up. There the seas became a bit messier and the winds picked up somewhat and there was quite a bit of motion on the ship. Some trainees started feeling unwell and so we had them in warm clothing, sitting in the stern by the wheel, being watched by our crew, trying to make them feel as comfortable as we could. Seasickness is an awful feeling so we felt for them but also knew that it does end and by the end of the trip it would be hopefully just a funny part of the bigger story. Further into the night the swell increased and the seas became even messier; let’s just say that it was a pretty rough beginning for many trainees and no one slept that well with all the rolling.
| We arrived at Triangle Island early in the morning and anchored in the lee. Triangle Island is the most northerly and west of the islands off the top of Vancouver Island. The swell always exists but it was less than it had been. After breakfast we launched dories and rowed in them around the bay watching the many sea lions in their colonies and the abundance of seabirds that nest there. Triangle Island has an interesting history because of the attempt in the early 1900’s to build a lighthouse there. It was unsuccessful but the story of the attempt is incredible and we read parts of it to the trainees once we were back on the ship. Now the island is protected and a reserve. No one is allowed on the island but there was plenty to see as we rowed along the shore . . . huge sea lion colonies with hundreds of large sea lions lounging on the rocks, tufted puffins, cassin’s and rhinoceros auklets, painted and pigeon guillemots, plus many more types of birds, all nesting on the steep cliff sides and surrounded by wild water crashing onto an inhospitable shoreline. It is very special to be here as the seas are rarely calm enough to anchor. |   |
We left after lunch and soon were able to raise sail, the mainsail, foresail, jumbo, jib, and two topsails . . . wonderful. We turned the engine off and felt the peace that washed through our entire bodies. We had a good northwest wind and sailed downwind, wing-on-wing, for the rest of the day, making up to 9.7 knots, until we anchored here in Winter Harbour. The sun was warm if you were seated out of the wind and so it was nice to be on deck, reading, napping standing watch etc. There was a Junior and an Intermediate lesson as well as a knot session to either learn or review the most common knots used on the boat. As the day progressed, some trainees still felt queasy but you could feel that life was returning on board our ship. Trainees began feeling better and thus more hopeful about their time here. By Mug-Up trainees were singing, smiling, laughing, chatting, and being part of life in our developing “Pacific Grace” community.
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Today we went ashore to play in the sand of Grant Bay, a beautiful sandy beach on the west side of the island. We rowed the dories about 3km to the end of a lagoon and then followed a well tagged but not often hiked trail for about an hour. It was a typical west coast forest with very large trees, salal, ferns, areas with many crisscrossing fallen trees, dark loamy soil, and bushes covered in old man’s beard etc. There were so many salal and huckleberries along the path and we stopped regularly to eat them. |
We are doing well and there are many new friendships developing. People are getting to know each other around mealtimes, during their watches, doing dishes, playing games, rowing in the dories, general ‘hanging out,’ and just living together in small places. I will try to write again soon, when we have another ‘window’ with service. Good-bye for now, Bonice.
August 23
| On Day 3 of the trip, after our memorable thrash through the woods to paradise, we headed south, out of our protective anchorage, and into the swell. There was some apprehension as to what might be awaiting us but we were welcomed with a following wind that, with 4 raised sails, sped us along at 9 knots most of the way to our new anchorage at the northeast corner of Brooks Peninsula, Klaskish Beach. It was just becoming dark as we played Pictionary Charades on deck in our watches under a nearly full moon; it was stunning. Singing followed this, down in the hold, with everyone participating, even those last few who had been struggling with leftover seasickness. Already the group was getting closer and stronger, and a sense of all of us belonging here was growing. |  |
August 24
Day 4 began cold and very foggy. The plan was to head ashore to a beautiful little beach where a fresh water river with dunes of sand all around, flowed into the ocean. We decided to wait awhile and Tom, an offshore trainee from the 1993 trip who is volunteering with us as watch leader, gave a photography lesson. Nearly everyone joined in and by the end, groups were moving around the deck practicing their photo set ups and getting advice from Tom. It was very successful. In the meantime, the fog had lifted and the sky opened up.| After lunch we moved closer to our sandy beach, re-anchored, and the zodiac shuttled groups ashore where we swam in the river, played in the sand, and explored. The sand was very white and very soft and there were dunes of it to play in. The sun decided to come out from behind the clouds so those who swam could warm up afterwards. By 1600hr we were back on the Pacific Grace and raised anchor for a second time, setting out to the fishing grounds to see what we could catch. |  |
We have quite a few eager ‘fisher-people’ aboard with lines, jiggers, and licenses. We motored out toward Solander Island and rolled and bobbed around for several hours pulling up quite a few fish. In the end we kept a 20lb halibut and a 16lb rockfish. It was all very exciting and VERY roly; huge swells coming at us from all sides as we tried to stay over the favored fishing spots. Our galley was tossed about and galley ‘music’ issued up regularly with pots, pans, etc. sliding from side to side and off the counters. By 1900hr we were on our way again, travelling around Solander Island and to the south edge of Brooks Peninsula where thankfully the seas were more settled and we were able to fall asleep to a gentle rolling. On the west coast there is usually a swell moving under us but as the trip progresses we get used to it, along with the sounds of moving sails and rigging . . . (and according to the boys in the hold, a foresail crutch that apparently kept up a steady creaking).
August 25
Day 5 we woke up to misty rain and everything on deck was wet, what a surprise to experience rain after such a long dry spell, even here. Our plan again was to hike a sandy beach in the morning but instead we stayed on the boat and Intermediates and Junior’s had a lesson, hoping, again, that the weather would improve by the afternoon. After Borscht and fresh buns for lunch we headed out to the fishing grounds again to catch a few more fish so we could make fish and chips for the entire boat for supper. Although we had already ‘rock and rolled’ around for more than two hours yesterday catching fish, we went out again . . . more ‘music’ from the galley . . . and two more rockfish were caught. We then returned to Brooks Peninsula and with the zodiac brought everyone ashore for a two hour hike along the sunny south shore. It was beautiful with many varied beaches, ragged rocky headlands, caves, enjoyable scrambling and climbing, interestingly shaped wind blown trees, and lots of beach combing. Along the way we picked up garbage and filled huge bags for Parks Canada to pick up. We met the Pacific Swift trainees on the beach and by supper everyone returned to their boats for supper. Both boats moved anchorage to Acous Peninsula, tying up together for the night. Mug Up was with two boatloads of young people, nice and loud, full of positive energy. The moon is full, or nearly full, and we have a very clear sky for night watch. The sea is calm so sleep should come easy tonight. There is a wonderful feeling on the Pacific Grace; we now have a strong community where people are happy and enjoying their days together. It is a beautiful thing to experience. Until next time Bonice.
August 27
Yesterday we raised anchor at 0500hr to begin heading south. The weather forecast was for strong northwest winds but when we emerged from our calm anchorage the wind was very light, practically non-existent, with a calm, glassy sea, and big swells. It was foggy and we could hear foghorns blowing from the different light stations as we travelled down the coast. It’s fun to find them on the chart; this is one of the symbols taught in the Junior level lessons. I think because we’ve had so much motion, our bodies have become used to it and no one seemed to be overly nauseous; sometimes it still feels better to be up on deck but for this community it seemed to be life as usual in the swell. Both Junior and Intermediate trainees had lessons (this also creates some queasiness in some, due to the motion or the lesson I’m not sure!). Tomorrow the Juniors will write their final test after a final review. Because there was a lack of wind we motored for the entire time; the sun slowly came out and by the time we arrived at Hot Springs Cove, it was shining and the fog had lifted. The west coast at this time of summer is often enshrined in fog in the morning, sometimes the entire day, and then blows over. During the day trainees were able to take on many different types of activities. Trainees were either on watch, reading, playing card games below and on deck, learning their lesson material, helping out in the galley, helping the bosun with the bright work (the Classic Boat Show will be in Victoria when we arrive home), making presents for secret friends, learning how to make a Turks Head knot on a wrist or ankle, but mostly trainees spend their time chatting, laughing, and building relationships with each other.We arrived by 1730 at Hot Springs Cove. It was a beautiful evening. After supper with everyone on deck, the zodiac started bringing people ashore and we all walked the half hour boardwalk through the west coast rainforest to the springs. The walk is memorable and everywhere it is green and growing and full of life. We were the only ones at the springs as the tour boats and helicopters out of Tofino had finished for the day. The hot springs are a series of various-sized pools in the rocks that meander down to the ocean and which fill with hot, hot water from a natural spring stemming in the forest. Trainees are strung all along the pools, bathing, soaking, enjoying . . . it feels wonderful to be immersed in hot water and to feel deeply warm again. The view from the pools is of the wild coast, ocean, small islands, and a setting sun. It really is quite something. We easily spent 2 hours there before we had to return to the boat in the nearly dark. There was a full moon but the fog had moved in again. There was a beautiful ominous feeling in the quiet bay as we took our little boat back to the big boat.
Once everyone had come aboard and stowed their wet gear, we met in the hold and over fudge brownies and chai tea, we spoke together of our community and some of the impressions it was having and making on each one of us so far. We have a wonderful group on board; the trainees are very caring, sensitive, and responsible with respects to each other. They seem to love being a part of what happens out here and so we have a very vibrant and active culture here on the Pacific Grace. We feel fortunate to be here in this beautiful country.
This morning we had a ‘sleep-in’ morning. At 0900hr music rang through the boat to wake everyone. The cooks also get to sleep in which means cereal and cold milk for breakfast, nice and easy for them. After a leisurely breakfast, followed by deck clean up and dishes, there was a final review for the junior trainees and a tide lesson for the Intermediate trainees. After the lessons, juniors wrote their exam. While all this was going on we remained at anchor, as the bay is well secluded and thus very calm. Because of the boat show this weekend, crew and trainees have been busy repainting the hull, sanding and varnishing the woodwork, painting the iron black again, and basically making the boat look beautiful again. The dry weather and the calm anchorage make this possible today. When all is done, we will head south, slowly making our way to Victoria. We still have some time together and we intend to make the most of our days on the ship. I will try to write one more log before Victoria. Till then Bonice.
August 29
We have just anchored at our final anchorage for this trip. Crew and trainees are busy painting and beautifying the ship for tomorrow’s entrance into Victoria Harbour. Others are busy playing card games in the hold and more are gathered on deck just chatting. The cooks Suzanna and McKenzie are making Pulled Pork and fresh buns for supper, a one-sitter on deck. The final day of the trip is always a busy one, though every day on this seems to have been full and busy and interesting. Today we had wind, wonderful wind. We sailed wing-on-wing down the west coast of the island, making 11.8 knots at our fastest. The swell was pretty well non-existent (or we’ve gotten so used to it) and the motion was quite comfortable. The wind steadily increased and the sailing was exhilarating; the boat was moving along so quietly but yet so powerfully and swiftly. Meanwhile, life continued on board. Intermediate trainees wrote their exams and junior trainees had some of their oral exams marked off in their logbooks, i.e. knots, safety procedures, radio, dory preparation and lowering etc. When we were nearing Peddar Bay the wind started to strengthen even more and the entire crew was needed to focus on the skipper and lower the mainsail underway. The wind blowing on the mainsail while it was being hauled in, and guided down, was magnificent; the power is intense and the sound of the wind howling around our ears, lines and sails flapping, is something to respect. We finally got the sail down and tied up and continued to make 8-9 knots under just the foresail and jumbo into Parker Bay, near William Head. It is a very gusty anchorage but we will be here for the final night. Our puppeteers and acting/music team are busy practicing and building the last few sets for tonight’s Puppet Show. Also, trainees are preparing their acts for the Talent Show. These are usually quite funny but can also be very impressive; we have many talented trainees on board.We left Hot springs Cove on Day 7 at 1400hr and motored along the east coast of Flores Island north of Tofino and Pacific Rim National Park. Because we were protected from the Pacific swell, the seas were calmer. We travelled along Miller Passage and anchored by 1900hr in Ritchie Bay on Meares Island. The area is known as Clayoquot Sound, an area of many stunning islands and big mountains. The anchorage was calm and the moon was large, full and orange, the first time this trip that we’ve encountered smoke from the forest fires. After a chicken curry supper, Van gathered everyone on deck and introduced the art of puppet making from beach trash. He had been collecting his own bag of pieces with this in mind when the entire group collected garbage from the beach at Brooks Peninsula. Van had been working on the script and tonight crew and trainees created the amazing cast of characters out of the items laid out in an organized manner on a tarp on deck, alongside glue guns, glue sticks, scissors, exacto knives etc. Van showed us how we could creatively turn the trash into birds, fish, mammals, people, sets etc. It was fun to see him do this and I realized that how and what we see in anything can be improved on and developed; Van saw eyeballs, eyes, mouths, hair, wings, bodies, sets, etc. in the pieces of bleached pieces of plastic, rope, bottles, buoys, old shoes, soles, Styrofoam, tires, plastic poster board etc. After a long evening of creative busy-ness we now have the cast and set of the play and a group of trainees has taken on the job of writing a music score. When it was too dark to create, we cleaned up and joined the mind game going on below deck with Tom, and the bakers in the galley making decorated shaped sugar cookies. Mug-Up singing was gusty and loud and never seems to be long enough for the kids . . . they continue to call out numbers of songs they want to sing. So much was happening tonight, so many wonderful and varied pockets of activity going on simultaneously.
At 0500hr we raised anchor and tried to get ahead of a possibly strong weather system coming through. At 1330hr there was still no system . . . .the sea was glassy calm with large swells rocking and rolling the boat. By now we are accustomed to it and we know where to leave things and definitely where not to leave things. There was fog all day with sun trying to get through. It was very peaceful but the crew had to watch the radar and blow the foghorn. There was a review for the Intermediates and the SALTS store was ‘opened’ for shopping. We continued most of the day down the coast to Port San Juan by Port Renfrew. It wasn’t till quite late in the afternoon that we were able to see the land, we could have been offshore on our way to Hawaii.
Sunday supper was turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, several vegetables, and cranberry sauce. Boat Sunday is usually on the 8th day of the trip. In the evening we sat together in the stern, in our sleeping bags, and discussed what makes this community what it is and how we can take it with us into our lives away from the boat. There was lots of participation from everyone; this group feels very close and many solid friendships have been made. By the time we were done, it was dark and we were completely closed in by the fog . . . it was beautiful.
This will be the final log for this trip. We have truly had an amazing time together and I hope we see these wonderful kids again. Thank you for reading, until the next trip, Bonice.