Pacific Swift - Trip 1 Summer 2018

June 30 Trainees from as far abroad as Australia, Hawaii, Utah and Saanich boarded the Pacific Swift in Victoria Harbour to begin Trip 1 of 2018. There is a nice blend of first time sailors and those returning for their second trip with SALTS. After a safety orientation we slipped lines at 1515 and bid farewell to the gathered well wishers on the dock. The wind and sea were calm beneath a leaden sky as we motored northwards, drawn forth by an encouraging forecast.

We departed the Gulf Islands and slipped through Active Pass just as the sun made a brief appearance between the clouds to paint the sea and sky in vibrant brush stokes of copper and Amber. Passing nearby with a sigh, 2 humpbacks welcomed us to the Strait of Georgia with a noble salute from their tail flukes before carrying on with their journey to the south. We motored on calmly as dusk settled over the sea. Gradually the winking lights of land were dimmed by the rising of the moon as she parted the veil of clouds to throw her light ahead on our course.

Shortly after midnight a small breeze gathered astern and starboard watch hoisted the twin course sails to send the Swift ghosting through the night at 2-3 knots. At the turn of the watch at 0400 the ashen light of dawn brought forth more wind and the inevitable payment of rain for the SE wind. The square topsail was loosed and the Swift gained steadily in speed until by breakfast time we were up to 8 knots. The air was mild despite the wind and occasional rain shower and once the dishes for the breakfast fruit crisp were tidied up all hands were called to set the mainsail. We continued north with the courses, topsail and main with the trainees getting in good practice gybing the mainsail as we wound our way past Texada Island in Malaspina Strait.

After lunch the sky grew brighter but the sun never could quite break through the heavy mantle of cloud that lay upon the shoulders of the hills and mountains that have sprung up around us. The wind toyed with us and our speed was up and down through the afternoon but we probably averaged around 6 knots. At 1500 our anchor finally came to rest in the sandy embrace of the Keefer Bay, Savary Island. It was a great 14 hour sail that brought us to the threshold of Desolation Sound. With all that time underway and hard work done by all it was time to launch the Dories and row ashore to stretch our legs on the pristine sandy shores of the island. The evening will be filled with games, music, lemon squares and a satisfying slumber as we slip into the welcome of our beckoning bunks.

July 2

We spent a pleasant night rafted alongside the Pacific Grace before waking to the gentle sound of bird calls and the gentle shush of a distant waterfall. Shortly after breakfast the sun climbed above the steep surrounding hillsides bathing the deck in light and warmth. A few cheery cumulus clouds remained aloft, scattered like sheep across a distant field. After first sitting of breakfast we said our farewells to the Grace and forward watch slipped our lines as we made a short journey to the nearbye waterfall. After breakfast everyone shuttled in to the shore for a refreshing and cleansing blast in Cassel Lake Falls. This water fall cascades from its eponymous source into the ocean, allowing easy access to one of desolation sounds highlights. Once cleansed it was off to the Lake itself for a swim in its tepid waters, surrounded by pristine wooded hills and the distant echoing calls of loons.

Back aboard near noon we proceeded underway from the Arm to push further into Desolation Sound. A fresh breeze waited at the mouth of the arm and we wasted no time in setting the courses and sending trainees aloft to loose the square topsail. Soon we were scudding happily along at 6 knots. We sailed into the heart of Desolation Sound aided by the wind following us around several bends and corners until finally by mid afternoon it died to a whisper. Under power we made our way north into Pendrell Sound. Pendrell Sound cleaves East Redonda Island in two leaving two dramatically steep shores on either side that soar quickly up to 1600m. We found a cozy calm anchorage just before supper and as we settled in the sun dipped beneath the towering wooded ridge on our eastern side. The shade is welcome after a day of sun, even though the breeze that propelled us kept us cool for the most part. The view from the anchorage is nothing short of spectacular. Mount Addenbrook rises dramatically off the bow showing patches of snow on its sheer peak. It however is only the most domineering of sights as all around the horizon mountains thrust their sharp tops high to try and grasp the occasional cloud gliding past. In sharp contrast to the nearby snow is the incredibly warm waters of Pendrell Sound that rival that of Cassel Lake. There is a noticeable openness and joy in the mood aboard as all hands relax and settle into shipboard life. PS. Brownies for mugup.

July 3

Rays of sunshine poured down through the tenacious evergreens that cling to the precipitous cliffs around us as dawn broke bright and clear over the Pacific Swift. The snow capped mountain peaks of the Island were just catching the first rays of the new day as the rumble of the anchor being weighed disturbed the tranquil stillness of the sound. We shifted anchorage over to nearby Waddington Channel where we dropped a lunch hook and had a pool party in the warm sunshine and beautiful scenery.

Trainees jumped and splashed alongside side and many brave souls enjoyed the ships rope swing. Refreshed and relaxed we weighed anchor near noon and passed through the narrow gap at the northern end of waddington channel. The view after emerging from the confines of the narrow channel was staggering. The scale of life exploded as innumerable mountain peaks and towering islands spanned the horizon. A waterfall was spotted in the distance plunging to the sea and we took a brief detour up Toba Inlet to inspect it more closely. The pale emerald waters of the inlet were very beautiful as we reached the northern summit of our trip before turning south again for an anchorage in Carrington Bay on Cortes Island.

While underway today we had lessons and much clandestine activity working on Secret Friend presents. All are well enjoying time spent in good company.

July 6

Escaping from the swamp-like miasma below decks, starboard watch came on deck to a humid and overcast morning. At 0700 we weighed anchor and motored south towards the gulf islands as the leaden sky overhead dropped occasional rain on the mirror still sea. Just before noon we picked up the NW breeze at its first whispers and set the courses and square top in anticipation of it building through the day. Several trainees are now comfortable laying aloft to loose or furl the topsail. The sun broke through as the wind built and it wasnt long before were flying along at 8.5 knots under a warm sun. It was a wonderful sail and we ran off many miles to the south. Just before we reached active pass to slip into the Gulf Islands the wind shut off almost instantly and we wallowed in the left over swell that rolled through the silty green waters of the Fraser River discharge. Squeezing through the pass we turned North and anchored shortly after dinner in Trincomali channel which was peacefully at rest except for the occasional warm cats paw and zephyr that rippled the water and wafted warmly over the ship bringing the scent of evergreens. That evening we enjoyed a simple Sunday service as we watched the sun ease into its evening berth in the West. The warm glow of the sunset lingered long into the night until at last it relinquished to the brilliant stars and Milky Way that arched across the firmament.

Another magical Trip 1 moment: the time two curious humpback whales approached the ship for a brief cuddle!
After a couple long days of travel all hands were treated to a sleep in before being energetically awakened by a dance party and music. It is beautifully warm today and balanced nicely with occasional breezes and cloud cover. With dishes polished up we shifted anchorage to Montague Harbour and went ashore to play games and explore the beautiful peninsula with its white shell beaches and tides pools. In the afternoon the anchor was hoisted to the rail once more and we chugged south for an anchorage in Lyall Harbour. At rest there it was time to enjoy a test in chartwork, navigation safety, terminology and sail theory. The reward was a delicious roast beef dinner prepared by the excellent cooks complete with all the requisite trimmings.